For the majority of the world’s population -30° C (-22°F) is a depth of coldness hardly imaginable, but during Finnish winters it can be a fact of life. I come from a part of the United States (Oregon) with mountains and snowy winters, but have rarely if ever been outside in such low degrees. It is a peculiar feeling and otherwise familiar objects and surroundings take on unexpected characteristics.
First of all, you have to take your winter clothing layering to a whole new level; 3 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of pants, 2 pairs of gloves – you cannot have too many layers in this weather. Any exposed skin stings and becomes numb in minutes. Locks of hair, eyelashes and beards become covered in frost. Upon taking your hand out of its glove to blow your ever-dripping nose, you don’t feel the cold, but rather an intense burning sensation after only 30 seconds. Your nostrils freeze with every inhale and defrost with every exhale.
On extremely cold days a fog hangs in the air while the sky is crystal clear, no clouds to insulate. And after a few weeks of sub-zero temperatures the lakes freeze. The city of Jyväskylä put out a notice in early January once the lakes were safe to walk on and residents promptly started traversing from shore to shore by ski, skate, bicycle and foot. The snow was cleared from a section of the lake to reveal the ice beneath for ice skating.
In Finland, the winter is a special time for sports and activities like those mentioned above, but additionally ice hole fishing and swimming. After steaming in a hot sauna, one can dip into the chilly water through a hole in the ice. It is said that the water below the ice is warmer than the air, though this knowledge doesn’t help much when you’re about to plunge in.
It is important to note that it is not -30°C every day in the winter in Finland. -30°C is a pretty low temperature even for Finns, but society keep functioning, children usually go to school, shops are open and people can be seen walking in the streets. It is my observation that while us newly arrived foreigners fearfully venture outside, wondering if it is possible for our eyelids to freeze shut, the locals and more seasoned residents just put on the appropriate layers and get on with life. If you are like me and are not sure what appropriate layers means, check out this helpful video.
Even the pigeons in downtown Jyväskylä figured out a clever way to stay warm by huddling in front of this warm air vent outside a department store! If you ever find yourself in -30°C, enjoy this unique experience and try to stay warm too!
Whenever I’m in Tallinn, I’m gonna pop some tags, as Macklemore put it. This city has great secondhand shops!
It seems that thrift (or secondhand) shopping can be either very trendy or non-existent depending on the country. In the United States for example, there are all kinds of shops for used goods and people from all socio-economic classes can be seen in them. In Germany though, one can have a hard time finding thrift shops; it doesn’t seem to be a habit that has caught on for some reason.
There can be a social stigma attached to buying used goods (clothing, housewares, furniture etc.) in some places, which I believe affects the popularity of thrift shops. However, I like thrift shopping because it takes items which people might normally throw away and puts them in the hands of people who need them, like students or others on a budget. It also creates community businesses and many shops are owned by churches or other charities where the profits make a positive impact. Plus, I personally find thrift shops to have the most interesting selection of random treasures – you never know what you’ll find!
Tallinn, the capital of Estonia is one place where you can thrift shop to your heart’s desire. Check out my top three thrift stores in Tallinn, and go on a little treasure hunt of your own!
Humana Second Hand
With locations all over Tallinn, there is likely to be a Humana shop near you. Prices are usually mid-range for used clothing and shoes, however during sale periods, campaigns change from 50% off everything to 3€ a piece to 1€, decreasing every day. The shop on Tartu maantee 29 is an exclusively vintage shop, for those of you who like to kick it old school.
Paavli Kaltsukas This thrift shop is the jackpot. Tucked away in a hidden spot, a 20 minute bus ride out of the city center, this shop is large and full of clothing, shoes, accessories, outerwear and books. Most easily accessible by trolley #9, stop “Ehte”.
American Second Hand USA Today, US 2 U and several other shops in Tallinn advertise used “American” goods. I checked them out myself to see if this was really true, and to my surprise I found brands like American Eagle, Gap, Banana Republic, Victoria’s Secret and Juicy Couture there. I even picked up several genuine leather Coach handbags for under 10€ each (for those of you who aren’t familiar with Coach, their bags usually retail for hundreds of dollars)!
US 2 U is located right across the street from Tallinn University, get off the tram #1 at the stop “Tallinna ülikool”.
US 2 U, Narva maantee 27
If you’d like a more thorough overview of Tallinn’s thrift shops, check out Triinu’s blog written by a local, and for more tips about visiting Tallinn, see my post Tallinn Quick Picks.
When most people think about the capitals of Europe, Tallinn is not the first city to come to mind. This is changing however, and the Estonian capital is getting a lot of attention as one of the most beautiful, high-tech, hip places to visit, work and live. Having lived there for one year myself, I’d have to agree!
Even a year is not enough time to see all Tallinn has to offer – there are the permanent attractions, museums, historical sites etc. not to mention the constant rotation of film festivals, medieval celebrations and concerts. For less than half a million residents, this city packs a punch. This is why it’s a shame that many travelers only stay in Tallinn from a few hours to a few days,
stopping by on their way somewhere else. This city is worth a trip in and of itself! I promise. For those of you visiting Tallinn, I have compiled a short list of quirky, budget-friendly tips and recommendations that is by no means comprehensive, but will get you rolling. I am also not a native of Estonia, but am happy to share my insights from having lived there.
Getting There
Tallinn is hub between other major cities of Northern Europe; it’s accessible by bus, ship and plane. When coming from Helsinki (only 80 kilometers away) a ferry is best and it’s possible to arrive in less than 2 hours, on a clear day. From Stockholm or St.Petersburg, stay overnight in a cruise ship. When coming from Riga, a bus is the cheapest option. If you’re traveling from further away than these cities, fly into Tallinn’s small and efficient airport.
*Note: Estonia is a European Union and Schengen country, so if you’re entering Estonia from another Schengen country (Finland, Sweden, Latvia, most of Europe, excluding Russia), you don’t need a special visa to visit. Estonia also uses the euro currency (€).
Local Transportation
Getting from place A to B in Tallinn is easy and affordable. A taxi ride from the harbor or airport to the city center shouldn’t cost more than 5-7€. Taxis in Tallinn are required to have a yellow sign in their window clearly stating their base fee and fees per kilometer during the day and at night. Do not get into a taxi without the fare information posted, as they may try to overcharge you. Drivers with expensive fares hover around tourist spots and can cost 2-3x more than others. If you want a really cheap, no-frills ride, call one of my favorites: Q Takso, Euro Takso, Inter Takso and IR Takso.
Public transport comes in the forms of buses, trolleys and trams. For residents of the city, local transportation is free. But as a tourist this doesn’t include you, so how do you get a ticket? You can buy one way tickets (1,60€) with cash from the driver, and be sure to take advantage of the student discount (0,80€) if you have an ISIC card. If you’ll be traveling with several people or staying for a few days, day tickets start from 3€, but can only be purchased via money loaded onto an electronic transport card. Visit the city’s website for instructions.
Hostels
The following accommodation choices are meant for those on a budget and who would like to have a little fun during their stay – not places to bring your granny. There are of course many nice hotels in Tallinn, but as a student, I don’t have much knowledge of them (except for Viimsi Spa Hotel, which I can highly recommend).
Monk’s Bunk Located just across the street from the main Freedom Square and a 5 minute walk from Toompea Hill, the location of this hostel is central without being too noisy and busy. It was remodeled in 2015 and has a cozy common area for hanging out, but what you really should do is join their insanely friendly staff for their pub crawl, which starts with rounds of drinks at the hostel bar and continues through the Old Town.
Red Emperor
You wouldn’t expect a hostel to attract a lot of business from locals, but Red Emperor is the type of place that is just as good (if not better) for grabbing a drink as it is for resting your head. This hostel is combined with a lively bar: watch live music, play table football, pool or even mega sized Jenga. When you’re ready for bed, your room is located in the same building. The graffiti decor and cheap drinks keep people coming back.
P.S. Even if you’re not staying overnight, check out the bar and order an “ice cream shot” here (Bounty is my personal favorite).
Attractions
The most spectacular and charming sight in Tallinn is luckily easy to find: the Old Town. The medieval shops, churches and city wall that form the heart of Tallinn are particularly well preserved and are nowadays a UNESCO World Heritage site. Take a stroll through the winding alleyways and enjoy the views – this attraction is impossible to miss.
While you’re in the Old Town, make a small trek up to the top of Toompea Hill. It’s the highest point of the city and full of historical buildings, churches and government offices. Patkuli viewing platform, overlooking the Old Town, is one of the most famous places in the city. Great views and the famous phrase “The Times we had” on the wall. Pose for a photo here.
Telliskivi
Looking for something a little more modern and trendy? Hop on the tram for a 5 minute ride out of the center to Telliskivi, just beyond the railway station. The former industrial neighborhood has been transformed into shops, restaurants and bars. You could spend an entire evening drinking and dining here.
After a 30 minute bus ride where you leave the city behind and drive by the sea, you reach the Teletorn. Travel to it’s top and you’ll find yourself in the tallest building in Estonia! From there you can see the Old Town, the harbor, the residential neighborhoods (including the massive, Lego-like Soviet apartments in Lasnamäe), the seaside and its small islands off the coast. Rumor is you might even be able to see all the way to Helsinki on a clear day… Tickets cost about 10€ and there is a cafe/restaurant where you can sip a reasonably priced coffee while enjoying a priceless view over the Tallinn. Admission also includes interactive exhibitions and a short 3D film.
Restaurants + Bars
F-Hoone Located in the Telliskivi neighborhood, this restaurant whose name translates to “F-building” is part of an old industrial complex. It has high ceilings, brick walls and a creative menu with dishes like “Pumpkin and chickpea falafel” or “roasted lamb with truffle-wine sauce”. At F-Hoone you won’t sacrifice money for a nice atmosphere and quality food (all the main dishes are under 10€).
Must Puudel If you’re in the Old Town and looking for a place to hide out and take a break, turn down tiny Müürivahe street and grab a drink or bite at Must Puudel. The decor is eclectic, bringing funky, bright colors into a historical building. On the menu you’ll find foods as varied as the decorations (vegetarian options too) along with local and international beers. In the summer, lounge outside in their hidden inner-courtyard. In the evenings be prepared to see this little placed packed!
III Draakon
The Three Dragons is a must-see cafe if you wanna get in the medieval spirit in the Old Town. This place is literally a hole in the wall of the Town Hall. Inside you’ll be transported back in time by the candle lit wooden tables and low stone ceilings. Waitresses in costume serve you from a simple menu of soup, pastries and drinks (all for under 3€).
If you’re interested in thrift and secondhand shopping, check out this post about Thrifting in Tallinn.
Hope these quick tips will help you & enjoy your trip!
Jae Jensen-Ginter · Freelance Writer 